Panthenol, or pro vitamin B5, earns its place in skincare as a humectant, an ingredient that attracts and holds onto moisture. Once it's absorbed, skin converts it into pantothenic acid, a compound the body already makes on its own.
Even at a concentration as low as 1%, studies show panthenol quickly increases skin hydration and slows transepidermal water loss, the rate at which moisture evaporates through the skin's surface, leaving skin feeling smoother and more supple. At slightly higher concentrations, between 1% and 5%, it also supports healing, reinforces the skin barrier, and may calm the redness that comes with sensitive skin, all without feeling drying or heavy.
Panthenol References
The Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University, Accessed April 2021, ePublication | International Journal of Cosmetic Science, December 2019, pages 534-547 | Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2019, pages 346-354 | Cosmetic Ingredient Review, March 2018, pages 1-51 | The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, August 2017, pages 173-180 | Journal of Cosmetic Science, August 2011, pages 361-370 | American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, Volume 3, 2002, pages 427-433
Our team reviews ingredient research and uses up-to-date evidence to rate ingredients based on the categories below.
Best
Ingredients with the most rigorous and convincing evidence. These are the standouts backed by consistent findings across independent, peer reviewed clinical research.. When we call an ingredient Best, it has earned that distinction through genuine, reproducible proof that it improves skin.
Good
Reliable, well tolerated ingredients that do their job without complaint. They may not carry the headline benefits of a Best rated active, but they hydrate, stabilize a formula, or support the ingredients around them in ways that make a real difference in how a product performs and feels.
Average
Ingredients that are perfectly safe and serve a clear function, typically as an emollient, thickener, or filler, but do not offer any meaningful skin benefit beyond that basic job. Not a red flag, just not a reason to choose one product over another.
Bad/Worst
Ingredients with documented potential to irritate skin, disrupt the barrier, or trigger sensitization in some users, often synthetic fragrance, drying forms of alcohol, or certain essential oils. Not automatically a dealbreaker for every skin type, but worth knowing about before you commit to a product.