Azelaic Acid

Naturally derived from grains, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid best known for two things: calming redness and clearing breakouts. Clinical research backs up both effects, showing it can visibly reduce blemishes as well as fade the discoloration and marks acne leaves behind.

It also has a mild exfoliating action that helps clear congested pores and smooth out texture, along with antioxidant properties. What makes azelaic acid an especially good exfoliant, though, is that it works differently from acids like glycolic or salicylic acid. Rather than dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together at the surface, azelaic acid regulates how skin cells grow and mature from within. Clinical studies show it reduces the size and number of keratohyalin granules, structures involved in how skin cells harden and shed, and normalizes a process called keratinization, which is often disrupted in acne prone skin and leads to thickened, clogged pores.

Because it works this way, azelaic acid tends to smooth texture and clear congestion more gradually than a traditional AHA or BHA, without the surface stinging or visible peeling that stronger acids can cause. That makes it a good option for people who want the texture refining benefits of exfoliation but find other acids too harsh or drying for regular use.

You'll find it in over the counter products at concentrations up to 10%, while prescription versions range from 15% to 20% and carry FDA approval specifically for treating acne and rosacea.